You won’t stop by Hot Doug’s after work for dinner.  He’s not open then.  You’ll also probably wait outside for anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes just to get in the door to see the menu and order - no matter when you arrive, and even if it’s raining or snowing.  Going to Hot Doug’s, then, is an event requiring some planning.  Proprieter Doug Sohn can get away with this, of course, as should be immediately evident upon cursory glance of his menu (rotates weekly - such rotation naturally dictate that one return periodically, for the rest of one’s life, to try his latest concoctions).

His location is… ridiculous.  One could conceivably call this neighborhood “Avondale” or perhaps the bowels/armpit of Logan Square.  It’s isolated on the wrong side of the expressway, and alongside industrial parks and parking lots to the north.  It’s reasonably transit-friendly though: just hop the California bus northbound from the Blue Line stop, or take the Belmont bus to California and walk.

Luckily for us, we arrived fashionably tardy as part of a larger group meetup, meaning we were able to conveniently cut at least 20 minutes from the ritual wait extending westward along Roscoe - luckier still because it was raining.  Following the sidewalk wait are two antechambers (in inclement weather, expect to be curtly reminded to keep the doors of the airlocks closed - don’t worry, there are usually copies of The Onion here with which to bide your time at this point).  Once inside for the home stretch, the magnificent menu is laid before you on the wall, before it’s finally time to order.  You will only ever order from Doug himself; the place is not open unless he is behind the counter.  If he’s sick or injured or on vacation, the place is closed (thankfully, he will notify you of such events via his website).  This guy is very serious about the sausage he sells (see: decor).

Deciding what to get can be daunting - options have included sausages made from rattlesnake, kangaroo, elk, etc.  Naturally, he takes care in choosing appropriate condiment pairings.  He’s been written up lord-only-knows how many times.  I’m pretty sure Anthony Bourdain, of Calumet Fisheries fame, also ate here at some point.  Whatever.  One could wax philosophical about this place’s significance in local, nay, national restaurant lore.  But let’s talk sausage.

Well, first beverage, then sausage.  Doug carries Green River, something I remember fondly from childhood as a rare treat.  Brewed in Chicago since 1919, this was once actually a pretty popular soda (made at the now-landmarked Schoenhofen Brewery in East Pilsen), at least until Prohibition ended and the brewery owners noted that amazingly beer was more profitable than soda.  I think it was defunct for some years, but in recent decades it’s been possible to find it as a niche product in scattered Chicago-area groceries.  Do not pass up any opportunity to drink Green River.

On the menu on Review Day was the Foie Gras and Sauternes Duck Sausage with Truffle Sauce Moutarde, Foie Gras Mousse, and Sel Gris.   Suffice it to say, many in our group could resist not this fattening temptation.

Every bit as rich and delicious as it sounds.  The moutarde is indeed noticeably truffly, the mousse’s texture and flavor smooth yet crisp, and the duck sausage one of the richest, most food-coma-inducing items one could ever bite into.  This one was actually good for some sympathetic publicity a couple years back, when Doug was the first person to be fined under Chicago’s short-lived moronic ban on the sale of foie gras.

We look next at the Blue Cheese Pork Sausage with Sir William Pear Cream Sauce and Smoked Almonds.

The flavor on this one evolves, with the sweetness of the almonds arriving late and proving to, interestingly, be necessary for this to feel well-rounded.  The sausage itself is perhaps slightly disappointing, or at least the primary sensation one gets from the sausage and pear cream is one of richness - the combination is less salty than one might expect from the description.  But again, the almonds round this out into a pleasant treat.

The last sausage yours truly could get down on Review Day was the Pear and Port Wine Elk Sausage with Cranberry Mustard and Blue Cheese Drizzled with Honey.

This was the standout of the day - a very complex blend that hits almost every taste sense.  The sausage itself has a distinct yet mild gaminess, and between the port infused in the sausage and the cranberry mustard there is a distinct tartness in each bite.  The Blue Cheese provides a perfect level of saltiness, while the honey and cranberry each contribute a different type of sweetness.  A very interesting and enjoyable concoction that I hope returns to the menu in future weeks (yeah, I’ll probably be back at some point…).

Oh, in addition to sausages, Doug also sells his trademark french fries rendered in duck fat - available Fridays and Saturdays only.

It’s not so much in the appearance - you just need to try them to see what I mean when I say these are probably in the top 10 french fries produced in recorded history.  Give or take.

Other member’s of the party offered their take.  Esther got the Smoked Portugese Linguica with Smoked Paprika Dijonnaise and Iberico Cheese.

Quote Esther:

I would order it again.  I was somewhat concerned that smoked dijonnaise + smoked linguica would = overpowering smokiness, but it was rich & savoury.  Bits of pepper in the sausage added accent.  The sweet, viscous dijonnaise made the sausage less dry, creating a nice balance.

Raphaël, the happiest Québécois transplant in Chicago, got the standard Chicago-style dog and seemed pretty pleased.

(check out his blog, if you know French).

Another successful outing - I’ve been a dozen times (more?) and have yet to be disappointed.  Frankly, this place is so essential in the Chicago food circuit that I’m positively apalled and mortified that so many people have yet to make the pilgrammage.  Per Doug:

“There are no two finer words in the English language than ‘encased meats,’ my friend.”

Hot Doug’s

3324 North California

Chicago, IL 60618

Ph: (773) 279-9550

Hours: M-Sa, 10:30a-4p (closed Su)